TID BITS on Profiling

Profiling

1. What it is. Breaking it down.
2. Why it’s important.
3. How to determine what profile, pivot point and lie is currently on a pair of skates.
4. How to determine what profile, pivot point and lie is best for you.
5. The steps to profile a skate blade using the SSM Profiler.
6. The steps to profile a skate blade using the SSM SM-6 Profile attachment to the SSM-2.

 

Intro

Profiling is the shaping the overall blade toe to heel. It is a huge factor in a skaters performance.   Regular sharpening takes care of the bottom of the blade my cutting a deep or shallow hollow in the bottom of the blade providing good ‘edges’ to the bottom of the blade. Profiling cuts the blade and changes the shape of the blade impacting how much blade rests on the ice when a player stands in a normal stance. The amount of blade that is resting on the ice is determined by the radius of the template used to grind and shape the blade.  For example a 11 foot radius template would make the blade shaped with a 11 foot radius and provide a larger relatively flat area of the blade resting on the ice when the player is in a normal stance. A 9 foot radius profile would result in a smaller flat area of the blade resting on the ice when the player is in a normal stance. This radius is cut on the blade relative to a known flat, level, or parallel line that represents the normal flat stance and balance or pivot point of the skater. Reference to this baseline flat or straight radius is important when setting up a blade in a holder in relation to the template. This is a critical step- setting a skate and blade up in a profile machine holder so that it is square to the template and the natural, neutral or flat stance of the player in his/her skate. Normally, for many set ups the bottom of the plastic represents the parallel or flat line that represents that flat or neutral stance of the skater. In other words imagine the skater stood on the plastic without the blade he/she would be in a normal flat balanced stance.   By moving the apex of the template to the rear of the center point of the skate blade then this results in the cutting the blade in more of the front forward portion of the blade being cut and resulting in the angle or pitch that the skater will be standing being more leaning forward. The pitch or angle changes regardless of whether it is a 9, 10, 11 foot radius.  So there is the overall shape of the blasé determined by the radius of the template used and then the pitch determined by where the template is positioned relative to the center of the skate boot and blade.

 

The trick is to

1. Start with the blade in the holder perfectly square to the bottom of the skate and the skaters neutral or flat, even balance point that represents a normal straight up stance. You can use the bottom of the plastic as a reference to make sure the blade and skate is square to the holder and thus to the template. This can also be done by lining up the skate and blade in the holder using the reference screws which set up the skate in the holder relative to the bottom of the blade. The reference points are very close together so it does not affect the angle of which the skate and blade is in the holder very much. If the blade is not in the holder square it will result in the pitch, lie of the profile being either more or less leaning forward or backward so this set up is important. SSM is devising a revolutionary technique to measure current profile radius on existing skate and blades as well as an improved method for squaring the template to the blade in the holder and also to the neutral stance of the skater. Not all skates and boots have the same pitch from the soul of the boot to the bottom of the plastic so using the current techniques for setting up the blade in the holder there would be currently slight differences in pitch or balance point of a skater between different manufactured skate boots. For now the 2 methods described are the way blades are set up for profiling in the industry.
2. The ultimate test of a profile is how the player feels on the ice. At a minimum a player should have a very similar profile radius that exists on his blades so it is uniform and to ensure the left and right skates are the same. Making a minor adjustment from a smaller radius (11 foot to 10 foot for example) would provide more stability and power but less maneuverability. Another minor adjustment would be to change the pitch by moving the radius apex or center point. A skater should know what they have and have it checked at a minimum once a season.

 

3. Assuming you have the skate and blade square in the holder the next step is to decide if the skater wants a profile of his/her blade to have them leaning more forward, or more upright. Forwards usually like a more leaning forward stance with their profile and a defenseman that skates backwards a lot typically like it more centered.   Once you decide what type of radius (9, 10 or 11 foot for example) and whether you want the profile to be leaning more forward or neutral then you simply have to mark the center of the blade with a marker. Then for more leaning forward profile you then move the mark toward the rear of the skate blade – the further back from center you position the center of the template the more forward leaning pitch there will be for the skaters stance.

A skaters blade profile has a big impact on their maneuverability, balance and leg fatigue.

 

1. What it is. Breaking down profiling of a blade.  

Basically profiling addresses the shape of the blade. There are 2 basic aspects of the shape that are important (we will introduce ‘compound radius” profiles which is just a combination of radius on a single blade which some skaters like. For example a 10 foot radius toward the front of the blade and a 19 foot toward the rear resulting in more skate staying on the ice during a tight pivot or turn.). The three aspects will have an impact on the skaters balance, speed and maneuverability.

There are 3 aspects of a blade profile: the single profile radius, the positioning of that radius on the blade (pivot point) and a compound radius.

1. The single profile radius. The overall curvature of the blade. The radius size can vary depending on if the skater wants more blade contacting the ice or less. With a larger radius shape more blade will be contacting the ice ( i.e. speed skaters blade) offering more balance, stability, power and straight ahead speed. A smaller radius shape less blade area will be in contact with the ice offering more maneuverability, tighter turns (i.e. figure skaters blades).

Note: There is a best profile radius that suits each skater. It is a personal preference. Most hockey players use a 9 – 11 foot radius providing a mix of speed and agility. Also, it is important that the left and right skate profiles match (often times they do not). The right profile radius and how that radius profile is position should support your skating style. If it does you will maximize your performance and reduce the amount of energy required.

Different radius templates are provided for the SSM Profiler and SSM SM6 Profile attachment .

Smaller arc, or less area of blade that is flat or actually touching the ice when in a normal standing or balance position, provides more maneuverability (figure skaters use a tighter radius profile, or hockey players that want to be able to cut, turn on a dime). Larger radius, or more of the blade with a flat area on the ice, offers little more stability, faster speeds and acceleration (speed skaters have their entire blade flat and making contact with ice at all times, also hockey players that prefer more acceleration, speed, and balance over maneuverability).

 

7 Foot radius profile- 1 inch area is flat

9 Foot radius profile- 1.5 inch area is flat

11 Foot radius profile- 2 inch area is flat

13 Foot radius profile- 3 inch area is flat

 

l Center of Blade

 

This area is larger or smaller depending on the profile radius size.

The Radius Profile.   For example: 7, 9, 11 or 13 foot radius are standard blade radius for hockey forwards or defenseman. A goalie or bandy skater would use a much larger radius (R28 for example). A figure skater, interested in maneuverability would likely use about a 7 foot radius. Which one is selected basically determines how much of the blade will be flat on the ice).

2. Next, is the Pivot Point or lie. This refers to where that flat area is positioned on the blade – for example toward the back, center or forward of the blade.   This is where the radius is positioned on the blade. Where the lowest point of the profile radius is positioned on the blade. It can be either centered, more forward or toward the back.   If the lowest point of the radius is in the center of your blade, the skaters balance between leaning forward and leaning backwards is equal. If it is moved toward the back then this profile will make the skater balance point be one that is leaning more forward. If the lowest point of the radius is moved forward then the opposite occurs and the center of gravity and balance point will make the skater have a feeling that they are leaning more backward. .

 

 

 

In summary, the larger the radius the more blade area will be contacting the ice at any given time. And, where that radius is positioned on the blade will determine if the lie, or balance point (Pivot Point) has the skater leaning or tilting more forward or backward. Both the Profile radius and the Lie are very important for optimizing a skaters performance.

A player needs to choose the radius he or she desires first and then the “Lie”. Again, Lie is where the Flat area is positioned on the blade, either in center of blade, or more toward the front or back and can make a big difference in skaters performance.

If more forward then natural balance point for player will be one that makes him/her lean more forward. Forwards like this, because it helps with speed, acceleration. A defenseman typically prefers that a less leaning forward Lie, or the flat area to be positioned bit more centered or to the rear, as it helps them with backward skating. It is all a matter of player preference and a player may try different profiles to see what works, or feels best for them.

With the SSM-2/SM-6 or Profile machine, it is very easy to create a precise Profile Radius and Lie.

 

 

 

3. Compound radius. The last aspect of a profiled skate to understand is that the radius on a blade can be just a single radius as described in #1 and #2 above or if a second radius shape is used to shape a portion of the blade. In the case of a compound radius the radius area with a single radius making contact with the ice the majority of the time is made more flat using a second, larger or flat radius profile. If two radius are applied to the blade this is called a compound radius. It simply means that two different radius profiles are used to shape the blade. The flat or flatter (larger radius) shape is used for that area of the blade that is making contact with the ice most of the time. This is done to provide more stability and speed.   A single radius profile has an area along that radius circle that seems relatively flat, for example an 11 foot radius the length of that area is about 2 inches and a 7 foot radius about 1 inch.
4. Ensuring that both the left and the right skates have the same profile and Lie (or pitch). This is not always the case when blades come from a manufacturer and possibly after blades are sharpened several times by hand. Profiling the blades will ensure left and right are exactly the same.

 

1. Why it’s important.

Some benefits of Profiling:

* Improved balance
* Sharper turns
* Quicker turns
* Faster starts
* Reduced fatigue
* Increased power
* Injury reduction
* Increased agility
* Increased lateral movement
* Increased speed
* Increased stability
* Controlled leg extensions
* Improved stickhandling

1. How to determine what profile, pivot point/lie is currently on a pair of skates.
   1. Position skate on a flat surface pressing down on the middle part of the skate
      1. Slide piece of paper in from the rear and one from the front
      2. Mark with a marker where the paper hits the blade

This will show you what the radius is and where it is positioned on your skate.

1. Trace your skate blade profile on the template sheet and compare your skates profile with the standard template profiles.   Do this for both skates.

 

1. How to determine what profile, pivot point and lie is best for you.
   1. Start with recommended profiles based on your size, skill level and position.
      1. Forward (skate size 7 to 12 – a smaller skate may want a R7-9:
         1. R10 or 11, Lie, slightly forward (center or lowest point of radius template positioned .5 inches back from skate center)
      2. Defense
         1. R11, Lie, centered or slightly backward (center or lowest point of radius template positioned .5 inches forward from skate center)

• Goalie
  1. Much flatter maybe 30 foot

 

1. Figure Skater
   1. Usually smaller 7-9 foot for enhanced maneuverability.

 

 

1. The steps to profile a skate blade using the SSM Profiler.

 

1. Select your desired profile, radius
   1. Insert and fasten the template on the Profiler. Note that it is reversed. In other words the template is facing you with the back of the skate represented on right side of the template. Make sure skate is positioned and aligned properly in holder.
2. Mark Skates
   1. Mark center and where you want the middle of the radius. Make sure that this mark is in the center of the holder when fastening the skate to the holder.
   2. Align skate against the Directing device.
3. Follow template, grind blade for the radius desired. If compound radius, cut the large radius or flat radius area first, then switch templates and cut the main radius profile second.

 

 

2. The steps to profile a skate blade using the SSM SM-6 Profile attachment to the SSM-2.
   1. Select profile, radius
      6. Insert and fasten the template on the SM-6. Note that the template is oriented the same way as the skate is.   In other words the template is facing the same direction as the skate. Make sure skate is positioned and aligned properly in holder.
   2. Mark Skates
      1. Mark center and where you want the middle of the radius. Make sure that mark is in the center of the holder.
   3. Follow template, grind blade for the radius desired. If compound radius, cut the large radius or flat area first, then switch templates and cut the main radius profile second.

 

 

 

 

Miscellaneous Notes:

There are many variables, age of player, experience, position played, brand of skate, etc. CCM skates for example, may come from the factory with a balanced pitch and 11′ radius. If you are a forward, that may not be right for you. A better performing radius might be 9′, with a toe down pitch.

A wrong radius is hampering their ability to grow and develop their skating skills.
Brand new skate pairs, that 80-90% of them come from the factory with a MISMATCHED radius, meaning the left blade’s radius is different than the right.

Recently, a customer came in with blades with a radius that had been altered so much to the rear, that he was skating on his heels. His body balance was backwards. Good profiling can repair most poor or botched sharpening jobs.

Matched, optimal for your style- Your “style” and personal preferences will determine how the skate’s blades should be shaped.

Radius and lie.
GOALIES, should profile thier skates too! A big problem with goalie skates is that most of them come from the factory with a reverse radius, only the toe and heel touching.

Lastly, be wary of shops that just offer 9, 11 and 13′ radius options. Since the proper radius is selected based on many factors, including skate blade size, shops with few options may not be able to grind the proper radius for your skates. For example, a junior skate may need a 6′ or 7′ radius, because it’s blade is much shorter than the adult skates.